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Thursday, October 24, 2013

South Africa : Last day

Unfortunatly our trip is coming to an end. However, our flight is only leaving at 10.00PM which gives us plenty of time to visit the Golden Gate Highlands National Park. We didn't have to pay any charge as we only went through the park. Even though we didn't really stop the park is worth the detour.

After the long drive back to Jo'burg we had to say goodbye to this wonderful country but we already have plans to visit the west coast :-).



Golden Gate Highlands National Park

Tuesday, October 22, 2013

South Africa : Drakensberg

Our next step was Drakensberg. I was really waiting for that moment as I love being in the mountains and the pictures I had seen were breathtaking. Unfortunatly, I didn't get to see to much the first day as the rain was pouring when we arrived at the backpackers we were staying, Inkosana Lodge.

This lovely place made us quickly forget about the weather outside as we read all the afternoon by the fireplace with a nice tea in our hands. As they say, "it's always tea time" in South Africa.

The next day we had more luck and we decided to hike "Blind man's corner" near the Monk's Cowl (70 ZAR). As expected the view got better with every step we took. The hike took us about 3 hours so we decide to drive quickly to Cathedral Peak. The drive to get there was really beautiful we went through all small villages with the Berg in background.

We've spend the second day in the mountains hiking near the Amphitheater. The "Thukela Gorge" hike is about 5 and half hours and is really worth it even though we couldn't see all of the Amphitheater as it was foggy.






Sunday, October 20, 2013

South Africa : iSimangaliso National Park - St-Lucia

We decided to head to St-Lucia about four hours from Kosi Bay. We went through the only commercial street to find a place to sleep that night. We found the Budget Backpacker which was alright for one night. Afterwards we left to explore the Eastern Shore of the park (120 ZAR/pers). It is a 40km drive between the sea and the inner lake. We have seen a lot of animals and especially birds and hippos. The viewpoints seemed new and well arranged. We arrived at Cape Vinal after a good hour drive. The view is splendid and it's worth walking on the beach for the view and the small crabs that live on the shore.

The day after we decided to visit the close by Hluhluwe-Umfolozi Game Reserve (120 ZAR/pers) which is said to be the little Kruger. We weren't disappointed by the magnificent landscapes and the variety of wild animals. The roads are better in the eastern part of the park. The western part is better suited for a 4WD. However, it is in the western part that we've seen our first lions which clearly made our day.

However, the best part of the day came when we arrived at Umlilo Lodge. This is our best stay for sure. Next to the fact that our room was perfect (with our first not shared bathroom with a bath) the decoration of the garden was splendid and the breakfast buffet was well furnished.




Cape Vidal - iSimangaliso




Hluhluwe-Umfolozi Game Reserve

South Africa : iSimangaliso National Park - Kosi Bay

This was our first day of rain. We left Crocodile Bridge Camp at 5.30 in the morning to be sure to arrive at Kosi Bay before night fall (it feels weird for us as sunset is around 6.30 PM this time of year).

The shortest way was to cross Swaziland which seemed interesting as they have some National Parks and have still a lot of traditional ceremonies. Unfortunately we didn't have to much to stop for all these attractions. First we arrived in front of a closed gate. Indeed, the border opens only between 7.00 AM and 6.00PM so we had to wait for a few minutes. As European we aren't used to go through customs anymore and after filling and receiving about ten papers, getting five stamps and paying 50 ZAR for the car we finally were in Swaziland. The drive through was pleasant but we didn't see too many things (looots of sugar canes!). About four hours later we arrived at the other side of the country and went through the Lavumisa Border control (which went faster and free :-)).

We arrived finally at Amangwane Camp in Kosi Bay around 3.00PM. We just took the time to go through our stuff in our hut and went to see the bay and estuary. The landscape is wonderful and seeing all these fishing traps in the lake was impressive and interesting. It is worth stopping at this place.

We had booked dinner and breakfast. These two meals were really good and we were treated as kings by our hosts. It's really a place I would recommend.

We were supposed to do some snorkeling and kayaking as the place is known for but the heavy rain changed our plans and we headed off to St-Lucia.


Amangwane Camp


Kosi Bay


Fishing nets in Kosi Bay

South Africa : Kruger National Park

We were really waiting for this big day of meeting the wildlife and there it was. We choose to weak up at 5.00 AM to arrive at Kruger NP around 7.00AM. We've heard that most animals are active until 10.00AM as it gets too hot later.

We were rewarded as soon as we've entered the park. We were looking all over the place, on the left were impalas, on the right zebras and in front giraffes. We were just like little kids in a toy store. I couldn't even list all the animals we saw that day but we have seen leopard, elephants and hyaena for the most impressive ones.

We had booked the Olifant wilderness trail for the three next days. This is a unique opportunity to walk in the bush with two rangers and to immerse yourself in the animal kingdom. We did see a quiet a few animals (close up with elephants, a white rhino, impalas, giraffes,... and a lioness who fled when we approached) but it's more about what we've learn about them, their habits, their food, their predators, etc. Moreover we were staying in a remote camp where we had a small hut for two persons and we were served breakfast, lunch and dinner. Everything was good organized and we ate really well. At the end of the day we would gather all eight of us (max participants) around the camp fire.
The rangers were accessible and keen to share their knowledge. We were impressed by their knowledge and the way they read the Bush (thanks again Harold & Shawn!).

The trail finished the saturday morning around 10.00AM and left us with stars in our eyes. We choose to drive all the way south of the park, Crocodile Bridge Camp. The camp was nice and clean. This was our last night in an amazing parc where nature and animals are up in lights.



Olifant trail













Saturday, October 12, 2013

South Africa : Leopard Trail

As most backpackers recommended us to do the Leopard Trail near the Three Rondawels we took their advice and went for the walk. In fact, we ended up walking three trails put together: Leopard, Guinea Fowl and Tula trails. We had to pay the entrance fee at the Blyde Forever Resort (R50 each) and went to park the car in the resort. It was only 9AM and it was already so hot but we decided to do it anyway.

The views during the whole hike are wonderful and we were even able to swim in natural pools with waterfalls (it was like being in a shower gel commercial :-)). It took us about 5 hours to walk the whole path but with a couple of stops. Don't forget to bring a LOT of water because it can be really hot out there. We learned later that the temperature was between 35°C and 40°C today. This probably explains why I was sweating like a pig...

We visited the Lisbon falls (R10 for entrance) on the way back to the Valley View Backpacker. These are the highest falls of the region and are worth a little stop.
Apparently, you can also go swimming a little down the river, but we didn't do it ourselves.


Leopard trail (Tufa Falls)


Lisbon falls

South Africa : first days

After getting acclimated to the driving on the left side of the road we now have to adapt to the South African way of life. I must admit the first hours aren't always easy. First, after taking gas it seems that the persons who tanks waits for a tip, but what I gave him didn't seem to be enough. First lesson learned. (After discussing the topics with locals, it appears that tipping is never compulsory, but that 2/3rands are a nice sign if the guy washes the window - a 5rand tip is okay is they check the tyres/water... So we were actually right ;-))

We decided to go visit Pilgrim's rest and we learned our second lesson : don't leave your dirty car (see previous post drive to Horseshoe falls for explanations) alone because when you come back it's all clean but they are waiting for their tip. Nice place but more touristic than authentic.

We started the "Panoramic view road" along Blyde River Canyon. Our next stop, the "three Rondavels". This place is really breathtaking. Three gigantic detached mountains with two rivers at their bottom. Even though this is only our second day I would say it's a "must see". The next stop is also really nice, the "Bourke's Luck Potholes". You can see potholes carved in stone by a river. It's really impressive.
The two sites have low entry fees (R10 & R80 for us two), so don't hesitate: the sites are clean and well maintained, and you really don't want to miss these views :-)

Later we went to God's window which is interesting but not as much as the two first sites. As everything closes at 05PM we couldn't visit "The Pinnacle" which seems to be nice but again after seeing the two first one it is a little bit less impressive. We went back to the Valley View backpackers for a good night rest.



Pilgrim's Rest


Three Rondawels


Blyde River Canyon

Bourke's Luck Potholes

South Africa : D-Day


The D-Day is finally there. Getting so excited to finally travel to Africa. The start was a bit exhausting with 12 hours of plane travel. But we finally put a foot on the African soil, yeah. First thing to do is to get through the customs and get all bagages. Next, get the car, humm... that might be a bit more difficult. We got a small Ford Figo, didn't even know they had that model. Anyway, found the car and now big day, driving on the left side of the road. It's really hard to get use to it but it will do. I'll probably go a few times on the wrong side of the car for a few days but it will be alright.
On the drive to our first place we've crossed a lot of flat and dry landscapes like you would imagine. However, getting close to Sabie we start to see hills and more contrasted views. Our first choice of the day was to visit the Horseshoe Falls. Even though the falls were nice, we had to drive 2 kilometer on a dirt road with the brand new renting car, at least it's still in one piece :-). Afterwards we went to the Mac Mac pools and falls to finish the already well filled day in the Valley View Backpacker.
This place is really amazing and friendly. Everybody can find what he's looking for.




Near Sabie


 Mac Mac Falls


Mac Mac Pools


Valley View Backpackers

South Africa : Trip to South Africa

Even though we've always wanted to visit South Africa, it's after a TV Show (Amazing Race) that we decide it was the good time to go. When we told people we would travel to South Africa their first reaction would be : "Pay attention to wild animals, they are dangerous" or "Don't get robbed because South Africa is an unsecured country". Well guess what, it didn't stop us.

We booked the plane and the car well in advance. We had to decide what we wanted to see and knowing we wanted to go to Kruger we knew we'd stay in the eastern part of the country. You'll see hereunder what we've come up to. Just waiting to be there...